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Serra do Cipo — Cachoeira da Farofa Slab
5.9 / 5csport

Serra do Cipo — Cachoeira da Farofa Slab

Santana do Riacho or Belo Horizonte day trip

Quick Facts

Pitches

3

Approach

20 min

Climb Time

2-3 hours

Elevation Gain

90m

Best Season

May, June, July…

Total Day

half day

4.4 (38 reviews)

About This Route

Three bolted pitches at 5.9 on featured quartzite next to a waterfall that becomes your post-climb pool. The best half-day option in Serra do Cipo if you want to climb AND swim. Great as a warm-up day before attempting the Bandeirinhas wall, or as a standalone when legs are tired. The rock has more featured pockets than the Bandeirinhas wall — easier to read for climbers new to quartzite.

The Crux

Pitch 2 — 5.9 transition from slab to near-vertical at a small break, where footwork matters more than arm strength, easy to over-grip

Warnings

  • Waterfall makes rock wet in lower sections — test friction before committing to moves near the base

Required Gear

  • 60m rope
  • 10 quickdraws
  • helmet
  • climbing shoes
  • swimsuit for post-climb waterfall

Minimum Gear

  • rope
  • harness
  • helmet
  • belay device
  • 8 quickdraws

Where to Eat After

  • Bring food from Santana do Riacho market

    picnic

    R$10-20

Where to Stay

  • Camping do Parque

    camping

    R$35/person/night

Climber Reports

We did this as a warm-up before Bandeirinhas and it was perfect. Easy enough to get into a flow state, the swimming hole after pitch 3 is cold and perfect after the climb.

Ana P.2025-09-05
5.9 / 5c