Serra do Cipo — Canion das Bandeirinhas
Belo Horizonte (95km) or Santana do Riacho
Quick Facts
Pitches
5
Approach
35 min hike from Parque Nacional entrance
Climb Time
3-5 hours
Elevation Gain
180m
Best Season
April, May, June…
Total Day
full day
About This Route
Serra do Cipo is Minas Gerais's world-class climbing destination — a national park canyon with quartzite walls rising 300m from the valley floor, waterfalls audible from the belays, and bolted routes from 5.8 to 5.13+. The Bandeirinhas wall is the sport climber's main objective: 5 pitches from moderate to pumpy, with the 7a main line as the test piece. The rock is rough quartzite — it eats skin but rewards technique. No guide required here (unlike the trad Rio routes), but the park entrance hours (8AM-5PM) mean an early start is essential.
The Crux
Pitch 4 — 12-meter roof sequence at 7a/5.11b, powerful pulls on horizontal jugs then a slap to a shallow sloper above the lip, strenuous if you pause
Warnings
- Park closes at 5PM — do not start pitch 3 after 2PM without headlamps
- Cerrado snakes are present — watch your hands in cracks
- Quartzite is aggressive — tape fingers on crack sections
Required Gear
- 60m dry rope
- 16 quickdraws
- ATC
- helmet
- climbing shoes with sticky rubber — quartzite eats soft soles
- 2L water
Minimum Gear
- rope
- harness
- helmet
- belay device
- 10 quickdraws
Guided Options
Guide operator
Serra do Cipo Aventurafrom R$380/person
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Where to Eat After
- R$40-75
Pousada Sempre Viva
farm-to-table restaurant
- R$25-50
Trilha Bar in Santana do Riacho
climbing bar
Where to Stay
- R$160-280/night
Pousada dos Sonhos
pousada
- R$35/person/night
Camping do Parque
camping
Climber Reports
“Sinos de Aldebaran is an incredible 45m climb with lots of styles mixed and distant protections — a great mind challenge and a remarkable experience. When it comes to sport climbing, Serra do Cipo is far better than the areas in Rio.”